Were you all really sad that I didn't post yesterday?

Have you been living in suspense about my nun fighting ways and how I will turn out - will I bitch-slap a monk next? Pants a priest? Groin-kick a Rabbi? There's really no telling.

In truth, I was doing something much more violent last night - I was sitting in the courtyard playing Risk. And considering that the people playing were American, French, British and German, I think a game about trying to dominate the world seems really appropriate.

I won, by the way.

Well, not really. We had to end early because some of us wanted to walk to The Victoria Memorial to see a light show, but I was winning.

See. I really have no morals.

But I do finally have an appetite! It's taken about three days for my stomach to adjust to the heat. For those first days I was hungry, but whenever I had food I just couldn't seem to swallow it. So instead I would stare miserably at all the delicious things to eat and wander the streets hungry.

But I'm starting to acclimate. And eat! And eat and eat! Viva la food club! The food here really is fantastic. And I've found the Germans to be great eating companions as every night their goal is to find some place new and fantastic to eat. Last night we ended up in a small vegetarian restaurant full of plants and brightly tiled walls. We got our first round of food, then ordered a second, and then a third. It felt so extravagant (and I suppose it was by relative Indian standards) but the bill only came out to about four dollars each. And it was at that moment that I decided that all future travel will revolve around food.

I decided to go back to the school today. Because it isn't about me, it's about the kids, and as far as I know, they don't have a teacher right now - so it felt right to go. And it was a good day. The kids were happy to see me (which is surprising because I made them cry the day before. I told you - no morals) and were climbing on me screaming "Auntie Kate! Auntie Kate!" Which was both really beautiful and also a bit itchy (as one of them has lice. Cross your fingers for me, but so far so good). There were SEVEN teachers that showed up today, and three of them were just returned from travels and have worked there before so I got to commiserate with them, and just really felt very supported. The impromptu lessons went really well. And I taught them the hokey pokey which was a huge hit.

And the nun didn't yell at me once! She definitely scowled at me when the kids were teaching me an Indian dance at the end of the day. But no yelling. I think she yelled at five other volunteers instead. I think she is an unhappy nun. Maybe she should eat more Indian food. It definitely makes me happy.

The bus ride home was -- aaagh -- well, yeah. Anyways. The buses don't ever really stop (unless you are a large group). They just kind of slow down and you have to jump on . Like hitching a ride on a train in a western movie (a genre I'm now an expert on, apparently) - like that. And they're packed! We're crammed in there, sweating like sardines (if sardines sweat? they definitely cram at least) and it's a loooong ride.

I was so exhausted when I got home that I didn't even make it to my bed. I fell asleep on my linoleum floor with my book as a pillow.

Woke up, went out for lunch, then headed to Kalighat for the afternoon to work with the women. Afterwards we sat on the roof again and drank tea and watched the people go by. It was apparently kite-flying night and there were groups of kids flying their kites up and down the street and on the rooftops. Beautiful.

On the metro ride home got hit on, for the bazillionth time. It's actually really obnoxious. Allen, a man I met today from Holland was laughing and asked if I liked the guy. (I've made up a boyfriend, whom upon mention is the only thing that makes the flirtation stop. I just say, "my boyfriend wouldn't like that." And that seems to end it. I've decided that I really like my imaginary boyfriend. I think I'll keep him). Anyways, Allen's lived in India for the past three years. He said, "the Indian men like to hit on the western women because they can talk to you and flirt - they still can't do that with the Indian women. But times are changing."

He thinks India will see major revolution in the next five to ten years. He thinks there is such huge underlying frustration that will eventually explode. He walked us home and told us that people are angry about the caste system, about the corruption. He said that there are an estimasted 1 million rapes a year in India, but only 2% of those are reported. And of the 2% reported only 12% are convicted. And what is more likely to happen, he said, is that the woman will ruin her life by reporting - will be ostrasized, looked down on as morally corupt. Often the police will blame her as well. Maybe she showed too much skin.

He also talked about other forms of violence. Domestic violence. Child abuse. He said women and children get beat regularly, and the statistic for sexual abuse against children is 53%. 53%?!

I'm not sure where his statistics came from, but it was a sobering walk nonetheless.

He pointed to a man in a BMW and said, "here, this man can do anything. He can kill anyone in broad daylight. but because he is rich, and the system is corrupt, he can do anything." I don't know what is true. But still, it is hard to hear. He thinks it will change soon though. He thinks it is changing already.

Speaking of violence, briefly - if you heard about the bombings in Delhi, I'm safe and well, and don't worry. As a result, security has been stepped up in the Calcutta metro. So now instead of metal detectors with no on guarding them when you go through (every person sets them off, but no one cares, it's hilarious) there now is a guard who is sitting there - who doesn't care. Everyone still sets them off, but now he is there to kind of look at them.

But not all is ugly and violent. I think that's the important contradiction of India. And really everywhere. It is always wrapped up, tied up together. And for everything ugly there is something beautiful. I believe that.

Anyways. I'm tired. I've been going all day. I need to get food and shower. Maybe read and write letters. Laughing yoga didn't happen yesterday, so we're going tomorrow. at 5:30 am. Then to breakfast and Kali's temple, then I think skip work at the school (more teachers mean I get to play hookie!) and just head over to Kalighat for the morning and give myself the night off. Just to be alone with my thoughts.

And there are so many thoughts...

I have like fifty bazillion things to tell you that I haven't even gotten to yet. Time is beginning to move quickly.

And I'm having fun.

Still. And still. I miss everyone - all my loved ones so very very much. I wish you were here. So much. So much.